Fixin' Up the Bungalow

-Gizmodyne Woodworking

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Our blog about home restoration and life inside a 1910 Craftsman Bungalow. Plus we make furniture.We look forward to your comments and questions.

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Archive Edition 2: Cabinet Series Continued

Posted By Gizmodyne on January 31, 2010

I previously posted links to the first 14 parts of my cabinet series. Here are the remaining links in which I build and install a custom dishwasher panel and install the doors and drawers on the remaining cabinets. Enjoy:

Part 15: Designing a Dishwasher Panel

Part 16: Dishwasher Stock Selection and Prep

Part 17: Milling Beadboard

Part 18: More Beadboard

Part 19: Joining with Domino Tenons

Part 20: Finishing the Panel

Part 21: Scribing Trim

Part 22: Installing the Dishwasher

Part 23: Hmmd

Part 24: Tilt Out Trays

Part 25: Doors (Hiding the Disaster)

Part 26: Shelves (Organizing the Disaster)

More Bungalow Style Kitchen Cabinets 4: Building Boxes

Posted By Gizmodyne on January 19, 2010

Last time I built cabinets, I used my biscuit joiner. I thought about going with it again, but since I have a Domino I said what the hey: Go for it.

Solid panel waiting for mortises

The cabinets have 5 identical rails: Two at the top for attaching the counters, one to act a a face frame nailer, and two at the back for securing to the wall during installation. There is also a bottom shelf.

I start by marking the approximate locations of the rails so that I put them in the right place. The sides are of course mirror images of each other and it is important to keep them straight.

x marks the rail spots

Accurate Mortise Placement
To use two methods for placing the mortises. The mortises for the “drawer rail” and “Bottom Shelf” are referenced off the bottom of the machine. I ripped guide rails that place the mortise in the correct location.

I set the rail with a square and held it with some clamps.

I carefully register the base of the Domino against the rail.


Since I am using 5 mm x 30 mm tenons had to set the depth to 12 mm on the panels and 20 mm on the rails. This prevents the mortise from cutting all the way trough the panels, but allows the full length of the tenon.
I cut the mortises to exact width. You can see the settings in the above photo.

The middle panel on one of the cabinets receives through mortises.

For the bottom shelf I created a marked guide rail that allows me cut matching parts by marking quickly. It is a basic story stick.

I only use the three center marks and then register the first and last cuts using the built in guide pin.

A short video showing how quick and dust free it is to use this tool as I cut 5 mortises in a minute.


Ten Mortises

For the remaining cuts I rerenced off of the Domino’s fence. In order to support the cuts on narrow boards I attached the aux base.

Cutting the ply:

Here is the panel with all of its 15 mortises.

The rail mortises are cut with the boards clamped to the table and the mortiser set at 20mm depth and an oversized slot.

I cut the larger cabinet first in about 3 hours or so(105 Mortises). This included a lot of thinking and inefficient moves along with making the spacers. The second cabinet only too 1 hour(60 mortises). Cool tools.

Preview
I dry assembled the cabinets to check the fit and see how they looked with face frames. I set a piece of fir on the top to simulate a cab top.



The solid panel is looking good.

Next Time
Cabinet Backs

More Kitchen Cabinets 4: Making Solid Panels and Cutting Plywood

Posted By Gizmodyne on January 17, 2010

My cabinets will have two visible solid panels. In this blog I will show the process I use in panel glue up (for bettor or for worse).

Stock Selection
Although the face frame stack is quartersawn, most of the original end panels in our house are plain sawn.

About a year back a neighbor game me some old growth fir.

Tasty!
This wood was beautiful and will become the most visible panel. I also resawed some old beams to create the stock for the second less visible panel.

I left the stock stickered for a few days before further surfacing.

I always lay my stock out with stickers. Never leave it laying without good air circulation, unless you want a cupped board.

Panel Layout
I set the rough length panels out and played with them until I got a grain pattern that pleased me.

The two center boards are from the same board and the outside boards are from the second board.

I marked a triangle across all four boards to preserve my layout.

I also mark “i” and “o” on the edges. This is a code for jointing. I hold the “i” sides inside towards the fence and the “o” sides outside towards the fence. If the jointer is off from 90 degrees this will create complementary angles that must add back to 180.


Jointing

Glue up
I have been doing my glue up on my table saw covered by plastic. I only have giant clamps and really need to get some 2 – 3 foot parallel clamps.

Cleaning Glue with a beater chisel
I try to get as much glue as possible. It is a boring step, but easier than cleaning rock hard glue.

I left the panels to dry overnight.

I unclamped the panels and spent some time scraping and sanding them to the following result.

I think the panels will look great in the context of the cabinets.

Preparing Plywood Parts
In order to conserve plywood I drew out a quick cutting plan to conserve the plywood.

A friend came over and helped me support the plywood for the rips. he is interested in learning how to build cabinets and made a few of the crosscuts.

I use a panel sled for all of my crosscuts.

The panels are surfaced and jointed, but I treat each panel like a fresh board by jointing it, ripping to final width plus 1/8”, ripping to final width and then crosscutting to length.

Here are the panels cut to size.

Incidentally I finally tried out the blade that came with my SawStop. I had stored it two years ago without realizing that it was an 80 tooth plywood blade.

The cuts are perfect: splinter and burn free.

I will be using this for all of my ply cuts from now on. Who knew?

*Final Plywood Part Sizes.”
Instead of working from my original drawings, I am working from the face frames. To determine the length of the plywood rails and bottoms. I clamped plywood and solid panel offcuts to the face frame to represent the panels. I used my folding rule to take an exact measurement.


Then I cut all the rails to the correct length at the crosscut sled.

All of the parts are sitting waiting to be joined.

Next time:
Joining cabinet parts.

Archive Edition: Bungalow Kitchen Cabinets

Posted By Gizmodyne on January 9, 2010

I just finished porting a huge collection of blog entries from my woodworking blog.If you are interested in how we turnedCabinet Shelf. our kitchen from this….

to this….

Here are the first 14 Parts of the blog. :)

Refinished cabinet

Part 1: Rough Milling

Part 2: Milling with a Quatromat Machine

Part 3: Doors

Part 4: Cutting Cabinet Box Parts

Part 5:  Joinery; Biscuiting Cases

Part 6: Cutting Grooves for Cabinet Backs

Part 7: Glue Up of Doors

Part 8: Dovetailing Drawers

Part 9: Z-Braces for the Doors

Part 10: Finishing Plywood

Part 11: Staining Douglas Fir

Part 12: Assembling Cabinet Boxes

Part 13: Final Assembly of Doors, Drawers, Hardware

Part 14: The Contest