Setting the v-bit

I used a set-up block saved from a prior project to get the v-bit set. The edge groove is simple enough. Just set the bit height to 1/8 and then bury it halfway behind the fence. I climb cut first to get a smooth cut on the fir. The bit is barely exposed so it is a pretty safe operation though I use paddles too.

Beadboard detail

Running the center groove is a bit more complicated. To get the bit in the center I draw a line on one board and use that to set the fence.

The challenge with running a v-down the middle of a board is to not have it kick away from the fence. Otherwise you will draw a squiggly v-groove. (Ask me how I know). So I set up a secondary fence to trap the workpiece and prevent it from kicking back. I learned this technique from the CMT window sash directions.

Running the center “v” with two fences.

Another view

Success!

Splines
I resawed some fir down to a bit over 1/4” then tested/planed/tested/planed…until I got a nice fit.

Spline test

I ripped the splines down to a hair under 1”

The splines installed. I cut them under the length of the b-board so I wouldn’t have to monkey with them during assembly.

The beadboard panel dry fit.

Weigh in
To attach the top and bottom rails on my doors I used a very time consuming method of stop-slotting the rails
and running tongues on the beadboard.

the old method_

This time I was going to use my domino to attach the rails. Sticking a domino in each beadboard end. Gluing the 2 on the end of each rail, and letting the middles ones float.

I also though about just pocket screwing it from the back since the back is completely hidden.