I set the domino for exact width cuts (8×50mm dominos) on the outer mortises and wide on the rest. All of the beadboard pieces received exact cut mortises. It took less than 20 minutes (lots of being cautious) to cut all 32 mortises.

I glued only the outer tenons. The rest will float (my attempt to account for future wood movement).

Assembly
No problem. Just a little mallet persuasion.

Testing on the machine.

Next time: Sanding, fitting, staining, Yawn.

Setting the v-bit

I used a set-up block saved from a prior project to get the v-bit set. The edge groove is simple enough. Just set the bit height to 1/8 and then bury it halfway behind the fence. I climb cut first to get a smooth cut on the fir. The bit is barely exposed so it is a pretty safe operation though I use paddles too.

Beadboard detail

Running the center groove is a bit more complicated. To get the bit in the center I draw a line on one board and use that to set the fence.

The challenge with running a v-down the middle of a board is to not have it kick away from the fence. Otherwise you will draw a squiggly v-groove. (Ask me how I know). So I set up a secondary fence to trap the workpiece and prevent it from kicking back. I learned this technique from the CMT window sash directions.

Running the center “v” with two fences.

Another view

Success!

Splines
I resawed some fir down to a bit over 1/4” then tested/planed/tested/planed…until I got a nice fit.

Spline test

I ripped the splines down to a hair under 1”

The splines installed. I cut them under the length of the b-board so I wouldn’t have to monkey with them during assembly.

The beadboard panel dry fit.

Weigh in
To attach the top and bottom rails on my doors I used a very time consuming method of stop-slotting the rails
and running tongues on the beadboard.

the old method_

This time I was going to use my domino to attach the rails. Sticking a domino in each beadboard end. Gluing the 2 on the end of each rail, and letting the middles ones float.

I also though about just pocket screwing it from the back since the back is completely hidden.

New Joinery Option

In my cabinet project I milled up stacks of tongue and groove beadboard. I never even thought about making it with grooves on both sides and milling splines until I read an article on Finehomebuilding.com (which I highly recommend; get a subscription to their online content).

Cutting only grooves simplifies the joinery and set-up time by a huge amount.

Beadboard calls for just 2 bits, though you could run the grooves on the tablesaw and dispense with the slot cutter. This is a 1/4” slot cutter set to 1/2” depth.

Setting the height: I mark a line and eyeball it.

After a test cut, I needed to raise the bit.

Groovin. I run three passes. One lite pass away from the bearing. One against the bearing, and one on the opposite face to center.

A finished board.

The grooved boards in their layout.

Side view

Next time: Splines